La Vega > Villaviciosa 30 km
Today was feasts, our best weapon against violent heat. We ate everywhere. We ate avocados on the ground in a park outside the supermarket. We ate chocolate sitting on the highway. We ate on the terrace of a roadside bar, which is where I learned you can order tomatoes as a meal, tomato y aceite, and it comes salted, with raw cebolla, and it slaps.
We argued politics, and behind us the sea was thinking too, whitecaps whipped from blue cream. I bought a pair of crocs from an ice cream shop that also sold fishing bait- you know beach towns- and my quality of life has greatly improved.
Tomorrow, the route splits in two. There’s the Primitivo, which cuts inland southward to Santiago, or pilgrims can continue along the Northern Route, hugging the coast of the Cantabrian sea. The Primitivo is harder, prettier, and slower.
All three of my companions are taking the hard route. I need rest before I go hard. According to my own, somewhat approximate calculations, I’ve walked 271 kilometers in the past 12 days, 168 miles, just to clear my head. It’s weird how content I’ve been on the Camino. But I hurt, people. Maybe these crocs of mine take me to a bus stop. Buenas noches.
